woensdag 26 januari 2011

Work Hard, Play Hard: Juun.J Doubles Up

Korean designer Juun.J’s specialty is a sort of doubled coat: two jackets attached at the bottom, looped and connected like a Möbius strip. There were plenty of these on view at his show at the Maison des Métallos in Paris yesterday. Models wore both at the same time, wore one and carried the other, or in some cases wore one on their bodies and one over their heads. It’s a Margiela kind of trick, as were the double-sleeved trenches the designer showed alongside. Put your arms through one set and let the other pair dangle down. (In fact, Margiela showed a very similar model for its women’s pre-fall collection.)

As slightly skewed as these coats may be, they’re also very beautiful, which is why the designer has picked up a cultish following at forward-leaning stores like Seven New York. In his own way, with the collection’s soft, wide-legged suits, horn-rimmed glasses, and the models’ slicked-back hair, Juun.J was doing his own version of the beleaguered businessman, not totally different from the men in the gray flannel suits Thom Browne used to show (apart from the much looser silhouette, of course). The business attire made those double coats and double jackets seem a little sad, somehow: Peel away a layer of suit and, like an onion, there’s just another lurking underneath. Some later play with the same material, though, yielded a lighter, more rebellious moment. The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit may have to work long, hard hours, but meet his weekend alter ego: The Man in the Gray Flannel Moto Jacket!
—Matthew Schneier

Photo: Richard Bord / Getty Images

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